Crossing from Mull to the Isle of Ulva, in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, is a tenuous undertaking in the cold depths of winter. During warmer months, people regularly venture in a small ferry across the narrow strait between the two islands, but at other times the service is sporadic.
On a bleak morning in January this year, I phoned in advance and waited for half an hour or so in the cold wind to get a boat ride to the ancestral home of Clan Macquarie. Later I returned from Ulva to Mull the same way, having seen no-one but the boatman all day. The accompanying photograph, taken from the Mull foreshore, shows the volcanic heap of Ulva across the water.
Ulva was home territory for Australia’s founding father, Governor Lachlan Macquarie, and this scrap of remote land somehow supported hundreds of people in its heyday. Clan Macquarie’s hold on the island is long gone and these days the population is less than 20.
A restored ‘croft’ cottage on Ulva near the ferry crossing shows how people lived in the old days. Typically, several generations shared a tiny living space and their livestock were kept under the same roof during winter.
Trudging along sodden tracks, I found the ruins of some of Ulva’s 16 abandoned farming settlements and tried to envisage the lives they enclosed. Lachlan Macquarie’s rise from this remote community to the governorship of New South Wales is a great story that deserves to be celebrated in Australian popular culture.