In the morning the first sounds are the defiant calls of the roosters challenging the day (and each other) from the chook house. I lie under the covers and marvel at their early morning exuberance. Outside it’s still dark. The rain has bought a respite from the big frosts we get here. The view out my window is bleak as day dawns but it’s actually warmer than a clear morning when the whole world is frozen in vice like beauty. Those are the mornings that I dread slipping out of bed because the air is so cold it bites bare skin. But rain brings a gentler version of winter and it’s too not so hard to shove my feet in sheepskin slippers, pad out to the kitchen and flick on the coffee machine. The next switch is the radio bringing Fran Kelly’s voice and a view into the wider world. Then I stoke the fire and turn on the computer. At the back door my black Labrador slaps her tail and peers in at early morning school lunch preparations. The coffee brews.
My coffee machine is a luxury that lessens the pain of not being in close proximity to café society. I take my steaming cup to sit in front of the fire. The frogs are a background chorus to the sound of my fingers on the computer keyboard. Recently this early morning coffee routine has become slightly more complicated than just opening a bottle of store bought milk.
You see we’ve finally got a milking cow. My daughter bought her as a four-day-old calf and raised her from a bottle, then out of a bucket, then watched as she grew into a confident, bossy heifer. Finally she was old enough to go in with the bull and then she had her much anticipated calf and now, three years down the track we have a milking cow.
Her name is Hettie and she’s brown with white splodges. She doesn’t take long to be broken to milking and she happily stands munching her hay and oats while my small daughter works away on her udder. But it’s my uncle who is the superfast and efficient milker and he milks her every day in the first month to get her supply established. Now the calf is big enough to handle the milk and he can have a day off every now and then or milk in the afternoon.
There are so many revelations in this process. There’s the sheer volume of milk – this cow is easily supplying two families with milk, plus her calf, plus about seven dogs who now have the most incredibly glossy coats. The black lab sits beside who ever is milking and would lick the milk off Hettie’s udder if she were allowed. As my uncle pours the excess into the big dog bowl he mutters – “We are going to have to get a pig.”
The next revelation is just how creamy the milk is – I skim, no skim is too shallow a word, I scoop rich tablespoons of cream off the top of the milk after its been in the fridge. My kids take a moment to get used to the taste of unpasteurised milk – but it doesn’t take them long. My aunt makes butter and sends it down to us in firm patties. We buy a yogurt maker and all of a sudden my weekly shop is looking dramatically smaller – though I’m not sure about my waistline.
It’s now possible to cook a meal with nearly everything sourced from the farm. My uncle kills, butchers and delivers lamb to my back door. We have a constant cycle of roosters in the fattening pen. We have chook eggs and duck eggs, an enormous vegetable garden and now the cow. I love that my kids know that to eat meat something has to die. They don’t like the killing part but they are both fascinated with the art of butchering. They can see the cycle of birth, life and death. They know how a tomato should taste. They can walk into my aunt’s vegetable garden and identify broad beans, cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, beans, snow peas, potatoes, pumpkins (I could go on). They understand that egg yolk is not meant to be pale yellow like the sand but bright florescent gold like the sun. They know where chops come from, and that the chicken you buy in the supermarket may as well be a different species to the roosters we raise in the rooster pen. All this is perfectly natural to them and they take it for granted. And perhaps I do too.
Recently I attended a Writer’s Festival and after my session and obligatory book signing I sat listening to a foodie who was selling his book next to me. Apparently he has his own TV program. I’ve never seen it, but I couldn’t help but laugh as he seriously explained the benefits of his new way of life. What he was saying was important, but he had the revolutionary zeal of the newly converted and the slickness of the city as he talked about it. He was loudly lamenting a way of life that had been lost and that (according to what I was hearing) he was singlehandedly reintroducing.
He was right and he was wrong. The sort of lifestyle he is leading is wonderful and not as common as it used to be, and it’s important to raise awareness of how interconnected our food chain is and how removed our population has become from the source of our food. But at the same time, this way of life is not lost, there are generations of farm families who have lived this way and that too is important to know.
I snuck a look at his hands. They weren’t farmers’ hands. Maybe he wears gloves.